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London or Paris to Istanbul by train...
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Above:
The incredible Haghia Sofia, Istanbul, a church then a
mosque and now a museum. It's 10 minutes walk from
Istanbul's Sirkeci station, where you arrive by train
from London, Paris, Vienna and Budapest.. |
Istanbul is perhaps Europe's most exotic city, where east
really does meet west. Can you still travel from
London or Paris to Istanbul by train? Of course! The train journey is
both feasible and an
adventure. It's safe and comfortable, too, if
you book a sleeper. The journey takes 3 nights (as
it always has), and departures from London are daily all
year. Naturally, a London-Istanbul train journey
will cost more than the air fare, as it's a 3-day adventure,
rediscovering some of the mystery, intrigue and romance of
long-distance sleeping-car travel across Europe into the
Balkans. This
page is a step-by-step guide to planning, booking & making a
train journey from the UK to Istanbul, with schedules, fares, what the journey
is like, and how to arrange tickets.
On this page:
London-Brussels-Vienna-Budapest-Bucharest-Istanbul:
Train times, fares, how to buy tickets. This is the
suggested route.
London-Brussels-Vienna-Belgrade-Sofia-Istanbul:
Train times, fares, how to buy tickets
London-Paris-Vienna-Belgrade/Bucharest-Istanbul:
Train times, fares, how to buy tickets
London-Paris-Ancona or
Brindisi-ferry-Turkey: Alternative route by ferry
from Italy
London-Paris-Athens-Thessaloniki-Istanbul:
Alternative route via northern Greece
Hotels in Istanbul - including the famous Pera
Palas Hotel
On other pages:
Train travel within Turkey:
Istanbul to Ankara, Konya, Pamukkale, Izmir & Eastern
Turkey.
Istanbul-Aleppo-Damascus-Jordan by train
Istanbul-Tehran by train
Istanbul-Thessaloniki-Athens by train
Istanbul-Cyprus by
train+ferry
Buying UK train tickets
to connect with Eurostar
Taking bikes
Dogs
Luggage
General information
Route map:
Sponsored links:
The route suggested here is probably the most comfortable, practical
and affordable rail route from London to Istanbul. It
involves taking Eurostar to Brussels and the excellent City
Night Line hotel train from Cologne to Vienna, which has
cheap fares available, then a connecting train to Budapest. Safe and comfortable sleeping-cars are available for
onward travel to Bucharest & Istanbul. Though with things
now much improved in Serbia and Macedonia there's not much in it between
this route and the more traditional
route via Belgrade shown further down this page, so
choose whichever suits you best. If you'd prefer to go
via Paris rather than Brussels, click
here.
Train times London ► Istanbul
-
Day 1: Travel
from London to Brussels by
Eurostar,
leaving London St Pancras at 13:00 (12:57 Fridays &
Sundays), arriving
Brussels Midi
16:03.
-
Day 1: Travel from Brussels to Cologne by high-speed
Thalys
train, leaving Brussels
Midi at 17:25, arriving in
Cologne Hauptbahnhof at 19:45.
-
Alternatively,
if you'd prefer a safer connection in Cologne (and
perhaps time to climb Cologne cathedral towers and
have a meal), you can leave London earlier, at 10:00,
changing in Brussels to arrive Cologne at 15:45.
-
Day 1: Travel
from Cologne to Vienna on the excellent
City Night Line hotel train 'Donau Kurier', leaving
Cologne Hauptbahnhof at 20:06 and arriving in Vienna
Westbahnhof at 08:35. The 'Donau Kurier' has
sleeping-cars (1 & 2 berth deluxe with shower, 1, 2 or
4 berth standard sleepers with washbasin), couchettes
(4 & 6 berth compartments), reclining seats & a
bar-restaurant car, see the photos & information
below. The train travels along the famous Rhine
Valley between Koblenz and Frankfurt, so if you are in
a sleeper and your compartment happens to be on the
left-hand side of the train, switch off the lights and
watch the Rhine pass by, mountains and castles lit by
moonlight, while sipping a glass of Riesling.
Wonderful!
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Day 2:
Travel
from Vienna to Budapest on the air-conditioned InterCity
train 'Avala', leaving Vienna Westbahnhof at 09:52 and arriving in
Budapest Keleti station at 12:53. This train has
a restaurant car serving snacks, drinks and affordable
complete meals - treat yourself to an early lunch..!
Look out for the crossing of the
Danube just before you arrive in Budapest.
3D virtual tour of 'Avala' 2nd class,
3D virtual tour of 'Avala' restaurant.
-
Day 2: Travel from Budapest to
Bucharest overnight on the EuroNight sleeper train
'Ister', leaving Budapest Keleti station at 17:45 and arriving at
Bucharest (Nord station) at 08:43 next morning. The Ister has
modernised air-conditioned sleeping-cars with safe,
comfortable and carpeted 1- 2- & 3-bed rooms with
washbasin (recommended option, the bedrooms convert to
private sitting rooms for evening/morning use, and
there's even a shower at the end of the corridor), 6-bunk couchettes
(basic bunks), a
restaurant car for dinner and ordinary seats (not
recommended).
-
Day 3: Travel from Bucharest to Istanbul on the
'Bosphor', leaving Bucharest (Nord) daily at 12:15 and arriving at
Istanbul (Sirkeci station) at 08:00 next day (day 4 from
London, assuming you don't stop off anywhere). The Bosfor
has a modernised air-conditioned
sleeping-car with safe,
comfortable and carpeted 1- 2- & 3-bed compartments with
washbasin (a sleeper is the recommended option - bedrooms convert to
private sitting rooms for day use, and there's even a shower at
the end of the corridor), and 6-bunk couchettes (basic
sleeping accommodation). There is no buffet or
restaurant car on this train, so take plenty of food and
bottled water, and your own supply of beer or wine!
What's the journey like? Travelling in the
comfort and security of the sleeping-car, this is a pleasant
and enjoyable journey. A couple of hours after leaving Bucharest
the train crosses the Danube from Romania into
Bulgaria on a very long steel bridge (2.5 km, the
longest steel bridge in Europe!), then for most
of the rest of the day it meanders through pleasant
river valleys past small Bulgarian villages. The
Turkish frontier at Kapikule is reached very late at night (01:25), and here you will need to briefly leave
the train to buy a Turkish visa and get your passport
stamped - see the visa information below.
You'll soon be back in bed, but make sure you're awake
for the dramatic entry into Istanbul, through the
impressive Byzantine Walls
of Theodosius and along the Bosphorus right underneath
the walls of the Topkapi Palace, into Istanbul's
historic Sirkeci station
(built in 1888) in
the heart of the city, walking distance from all the
sights. By sleeping-car into Sirkeci station is
the traditional way to arrive - why not hop into a taxi
to the famous and equally traditional
Pera Palas Hotel? Expect an arrival an hour
or two late. Relax and enjoy the ride...
Map of Istanbul.
-
Note: There used
to be a direct Hungarian couchette car from Budapest to
Istanbul, shunted from train to train in Bucharest and
taking 2 nights attached to the same trains shown here,
but this was permanently withdrawn from December 2007.
This is no great loss, as a bed in a sleeping-car is the
recommended option east of Budapest, for both comfort &
security, and a bed in a 3-bed sleeper hardly costs much
more than a mere couchette in a very basic 6-bunk
couchette compartment.
On
board the
City Night Line hotel train from Cologne to
Vienna...
The City Night Line 'Donau Kurier' is a travelling hotel, with
bar-restaurant-reception car, distinctive
double-decker sleeping-cars with 1 & 2-bed deluxe
sleepers with private shower & toilet, 1, 2 & 4
bed standard sleepers with washbasin, single-deck couchette
cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and
reclining seats. A wonderful way to
travel..! The
sleeper berths come fully made up with sheets and
duvets. All
sleeper passengers get mineral water in the evening
and a light breakfast served in their compartment next morning, deluxe sleeper
passengers also get a complimentary glass of wine in
the evening. Towels and toiletries are
provided, including shampoo and shower gel in the
deluxe sleeper. Couchette passengers get
mineral water, each couchette is provided with
clean sheets, blanket and pillow. The bar-restaurant is
open to all passengers, and it's normally open to
about 2am. If you like, you can book a table
for dinner in the restaurant car before you travel,
by emailing
service@citynightline.ch or using the online
form at
www.bahn.de/citynightline.
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Deluxe sleeper:
Compact rooms on top deck, 1 or 2 berths, table &
chairs, shower & toilet.
3-D panorama. |
|
Standard sleeper:
Very compact 1 or 2 berth rooms with washbasin.
Mainly lower deck. |
|
4-berth couchettes:
Ideal for families. Much more space per person
than 6-berth, so worth the extra few euros. |
|
6-berth couchettes:
Shown here with middle bunks lowered to form
sofa. Very economical, far better than a
seat. |
|
Reclining seats:
The cheapest way to travel, but a couchette is a far
better option. |
On board
the
sleeping-car from Budapest to
Bucharest & from Bucharest to Istanbul...
Travelling in
the comfort & security of a sleeper is the recommended
option. The sleeping-cars on the
Budapest-Bucharest and Bucharest-Istanbul trains are
operated by CFR (Romanian Railways) and
bought second-hand from German Railways. Each
compartment can be used for 1, 2 or 3-person occupancy,
and each room converts from a bedroom with washbasin at
night to a private sitting room with sofa and coffee
table by day. There's even a shower at the end of
the corridor, although temperature and water pressure
could be better! Compartments are single-sex,
unless all berths in the compartment are occupied by
people travelling together. All rooms have both a
normal lock on the door, and a security lock which
CANNOT be opened from outside (even with a staff key),
so you'll be both safe and snug!
More information about travelling in sleepers.
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Above: The
Bucharest-Istanbul sleeping-car, seen here at Giurgiu on the
Bulgarian/Romanian frontier... |
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A bedroom at night...
Set up here as a single-berth with middle & top berths
unused. |
|
A private sitting room by
day, with sofa & table... |
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After crossing
the Danube into Bulgaria, the Bosfor spends a lazy
afternoon meandering along pleasant river valleys like
this. Relax in your private sleeper, pour yourself
a beer or glass of wine (remember to bring your own food
& drink!), read away the hours & enjoy the trip... Photos
above courtesy of Kester Dampney
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Above: The 'Bosfor' express in
the green countryside of Bulgaria... |
|
After midnight, under
the arclights at Kapikule on the Turkish
frontier... You need to get off the train for
a few minutes here to buy
your Turkish visa then have your passport stamped.
You'll be in Istanbul by morning... |
|
In the last minutes of the
journey, the train swishes through the Walls of
Theodosius (above) at the very edge of the city, and
arrives in Istanbul's Sirkeci station a stone's
throw from the Bosphorus. Photo
courtesy of Kester Dampney |
Train
times Istanbul ► London
-
Day 1: Travel from Istanbul
to Bucharest on the 'Bosphor', leaving Istanbul (Sirkeci
station) daily at 22:00 and arriving next day in Bucharest
Nord at 17:24. The Bosfor has a modernised air-conditioned
sleeping-car with safe, comfortable and carpeted 1- 2-
& 3-bed
compartments with washbasin (a sleeper is the recommended option,
rooms convert to private sitting rooms by day, and there's even a shower at the end of the corridor), 6-bunk
couchettes (basic sleeping accommodation). There
are no ordinary seats.
Bring your own food, water and wine or beer, as there's
no restaurant car (there's a wine shop directly across
the road from the entrance to Sirkeci station!). Travelling in the comfort and security of the
sleeping-car, this is a very pleasant journey, although
be prepared to get off the train briefly at the frontier
(Kapikule) at 02:55 to have your passport stamped. In the
morning the train wanders through lush green Bulgarian
valleys before crossing the wide brown Danube into
Romania. Expect an arrival an hour or two late,
but as this train has to hand over some Sofia-Budapest
cars onto the train to Budapest, it's a safe connection
as the train to Budapest has to wait.
-
Day 2: Travel from Bucharest to Budapest on the
EuroNight 'Ister', leaving Bucharest Nord at 18:50 and arriving in Budapest at
07:37 next day (day
3). The Ister has modernised
air-conditioned sleeping-cars with safe, comfortable and
carpeted 1- 2- & 3-bed compartments with washbasin
(recommended option, the rooms convert to private sitting
rooms by day and there's even a shower at the end of
the corridor), 6-berth couchettes and ordinary seats (not recommended).
There is also a restaurant car for dinner. Note
that there used to be a direct Istanbul to Budapest couchette
car, but it was withdrawn permanently from 9 December
2007, no great loss!
-
Day 3:
Travel from Budapest to Vienna on a
modern air-conditioned InterCity train, leaving Budapest Keleti station at 11:10 and
arriving in Vienna Westbahnhof at 14:08. If the
Ister is delayed for any reason, there is another train
at 15:10 arriving Vienna at 18:08.
-
Day 3: Travel
from Vienna to Cologne overnight, leaving Vienna
Westbahnhof at 20:35 and arriving at
Cologne at 08:42 next morning. This train is the
excellent City Night Line hotel train 'Donau Kurier',
with double-deck sleeping-cars (1 or 2-bed deluxe
sleepers with en suite shower & WC, 1- 2- or 4-bed
standard sleepers with washbasin), couchettes (4-bunk
or 6-bunk), reclining seats and a bar-restaurant car.
See the information & photos above.
-
Day 4: Travel from Cologne to Brussels by high-speed
Thalys
train, leaving Cologne at 10:14 and arriving
Brussels Midi 12:35.
-
Day 4: Travel
from Brussels
Midi to London by
Eurostar,
leaving Brussels at 14:59 arriving London St Pancras
at 15:56.
Can I stop off to see places on the way?
Of course you can! The train times shown above
assume you are travelling straight through without
stopovers, but these are regular scheduled trains with
regular ticketing, not a tour or package, so you can do what
you like. Each train is ticketed separately, so you
can book each train for whatever date you want, and spend
time in Cologne, Vienna, Budapest or Romania on the way.
It makes no difference to the cost. Just remember that
all of these trains (except Vienna-Budapest) are
'reservation compulsory', so you need to make a seat,
couchette or sleeper reservation before you board each
train, you can't just hop on without a reservation.
Whether you make all the reservations in advance in the UK,
or make
reservations at station ticket offices as you go along, is
up to you. If you choose to make reservations as you
go, you will seldom find any of these trains fully booked,
places are normally available even on the day of travel. There is only one daily train from
Bucharest to Istanbul, but on most of the other stages (for
example, London-Brussels-Cologne, Vienna-Budapest or
Budapest-Bucharest) there are other trains in addition to
the ones suggested above. You can check train times
for each stage using
http://bahn.hafas.de.
Fares, using
point to point tickets:
A new range of
InterRail passes went on sale in April 2007, and buying
an InterRail pass is probably now the cheapest and most flexible
way to make a journey from London or Paris to Istanbul.
The InterRail pass option is explained and costed below, but
here are prices for normal point-to-point
tickets. As you can see, you need to get a calculator
and add up the fare for each leg of the journey:
|
1. London to
Cologne
by
Eurostar + Thalys: |
London to
Cologne by Eurostar+Thalys or Eurostar+ICE starts at just £79
return.
Book in advance to get the cheapest fares, as the
fare rises as cheaper seats are sold.
One-way fares usually cost more than a return,
so for one-way trips buy a return and throw away the return half. |
|
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2. Cologne to
Vienna
by
CityNightLine: |
In a
reclining
seat: |
In a
couchette |
In the
sleeping-car |
|
6-berth
|
4-berth |
4-berth |
2-berth
|
single |
deluxe
2-berth |
deluxe single |
|
Savings
fare
one-way * |
£21 |
£36 |
£44 |
£51 |
£58 |
£103 |
£73 |
£140 |
|
Savings
fare
return * |
£42 |
£72 |
£88 |
£102 |
£116 |
£206 |
£146 |
£280 |
|
Normal fare one-way: |
£88 |
£99 |
£106 |
£114 |
£129 |
£159 |
£172 |
£201 |
|
Normal fare return: |
£176 |
£198 |
£212 |
£228 |
£258 |
£318 |
£344 |
£402 |
|
Child
under 14 with own berth: |
£44 |
£49 |
£53 |
£58 |
£60 |
£78 |
£65 |
£100 |
|
Child
under 6 without own berth: |
Child 0-5 (inclusive) sharing berth travels free... |
|
*
Savings fares = special book-in-advance fares, no
refunds, no changes, limited availability at this
price.
On City Night line, couchettes are sold
individually, but only whole sleeper compartments may be
booked.
|
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3. Vienna to Budapest
by EuroCity train |
£24 one-way, £48 return 2nd class
£38
one-way, £76 return 1st class |
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4. Budapest to
Bucharest
on the Ister : |
Booked in UK:
£69 each way in 6-bunk couchettes, £74 each way in
4-bunk couchettes
£80 each way in 3-bed sleeper, £91 each way in 2-bed
sleeper (all per person)
Bought at the
station in Budapest, Budapest-Bucharest is about 50 euros
one-way, 100 euros return. For a
couchette, add 10 euros per night, or for a
more comfortable and secure sleeper, add about 25 euros
for a bed in a 3-bed sleeper, 36 euros for a bed in a
2-bed. |
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5. Bucharest
to Istanbul
on the Bosfor: |
Booked in the
UK:
£55 each way in
6-berth couchettes (not recommended)
£62 each way in 3-bed
sleeper, £70 each way in 2-bed sleeper (per person),
recommended.
Bought at the
station in Bucharest, Bucharest-Istanbul is about 40 euros one-way,
80 euros return, 2nd class. For a
couchette in 6-bunk couchette compartment, add 10 euros
to the 2nd class fare, or for a
more comfortable and secure sleeper, add 25 euros for a
bed in a 3-berth compartment or 36 euros for a bed in a
2-berth compartment to the 2nd class fare. For a
single berth sleeper, add 80 euros supplement to the 1st
class fare (1st class is 50% more than 2nd class).
Bought at the station
in Istanbul, Istanbul to Bucharest costs 60 Turkish Lira
(£25) one-way, plus a sleeper supplement of 20 YTL (£10)
per person to travel in a shared 3-bed sleeper or 30 YTL
(£15) to travel in a shared 2-bed sleeper. |
Fares, using an InterRail pass...
The new range
of InterRail passes that goes on sale from April 2007
makes using an InterRail pass the cheapest and most flexible
way to make a train journey from London or Paris to
Istanbul. It also allows you to stop off and travel
round the countries you pass through on the way.
-
For a
one-way London-Istanbul trip, a 5-days-in-ten-days flexi
InterRail pass gives a total of 5 days of unlimited 2nd
class train travel in all the countries you pass through
within a maximum period of 10 days, which is plenty to make
the journey, even with a day or two in Vienna and Budapest
and Bucharest if you want. It costs £128 if you are
aged under 26, or £200 if you're over 26. Children
4-11 inclusive £100. Sleeper trains leaving after 19:00
count as the following day, so only one 'pass day' is used
up by an overnight train ride, for example the Istanbul to
Bucharest train on the return journey.
-
For a return
London-Istanbul trip, a 10-days-in-22-days pass costs
£192 if you are aged under 26, or £288 if you're over
26. Children 4-11 inclusive £144. This gives a
total of 10 days of unlimited 2nd class train travel in all
the countries you pass through within a maximum period of 22
days, which is enough to make the outward and return
journeys, even with a day or two in Vienna and Budapest and
Bucharest if you want, with over two weeks in Turkey, as
long as you complete both your outward and return journeys
within the 22 day period covered by the pass. If you
plan to be away for longer than 22 days, you'll need either
a 1-month continuous InterRail, or you could buy one
5-days-in-ten-days flexi pass for the outward trip and
another 5-days-in-ten-days flexi pass to cover your return
trip, and spend however long you like in Turkey and the
middle east. The only limiting factor is that you can
only buy InterRails a maximum of 2 months before their start
date. Again, remember that
sleeper trains leaving after 19:00 count as the following
day, so only one 'pass day' is used up by an overnight train
ride.
-
Eurostar: InterRail passes do not cover
Eurostar, so you need to add the cost of a Eurostar
ticket. You have two options: Buy a normal
cheap Eurostar ticket, from £59 return, no refunds, no
changes to travel plans allowed, or you can buy a
special passholder fare, £50 one way £100 return,
refunds and change of travel plans allowed.
-
Sleeper
or couchette supplements: In addition to the
cost of the InterRail pass, you will need to pay a
supplements for each night in a couchette or sleeper berth.
For a couchette, budget for around £14 per person for
the night between Cologne and Vienna, plus £9 for each of
the next two nights between Budapest, Bucharest and Istanbul.
For a bed in a 2-berth sleeper, allow £40 per person per
night for
the night between Cologne and Vienna, and about £24
per person per night for each of the two nights
Budapest-Bucharest and Bucharest-Istanbul.
-
See below for advice
on how to organise this trip using an InterRail pass.
Please don't phone up a
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